eleven days.

I’m home for a spell. It’s winter in Australia. The air is clean and crisp like a new set of white sheets. You can breathe it in and it has a slight burn as it travels through your nose. I’ve had rain and shine and this tells me that Melbourne is still the same as […]

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the ground of graves.

I went to Auschwitz today. The sky had clouds over it and the rain fell softly. Slowly. What does it feel like to stand on the grave of one and a half million? Auschwitz was all red brick barracks and dirt. It had two layers of barbed-wire fencing surrounding it. Its wires twisting and twisting […]

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a show i did not pay to see

In the late sun of Saturday the main square of Krakow suddenly fills with young people. They sit cross-legged, or stand in groups. It’s nothing unusual. They are here for the same reason I am here and the same reason they are here, and those few over there are here. But then the young of the […]

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cracked krakow (23rd-24th July)

Krakow (pronounced crack-ov) is the old capital of Poland. We arrive in the dawn of day straight from the night train and Krakow is deserted. It’s battered. Its buildings aren’t trimmed and glossy to be proper tourist attractions. No, the walls are dirty, the streets quiet. But it’s 7am. And after throwing off my overloaded […]

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This is a night train in Europe

We arrive in the early morning into Krakow from a night train experience and a half. It was vinyl red seats (termed couchettes) for nine and a half hours. Eight people to a small cabin. It was four of us with three other men; one who appeared to dislocate his bones during sleep, and another […]

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Prague, you medieval town.

Built on a history of religious wars and woes of occupation by fiercer nations, you’re weathered and your people are wary. You are old but your buildings are beautiful in their age. You’re a bloody one, with the arm that hangs in the church and the cobble stoned crosses in the square that mark the […]

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