Orthodox churches dot the city of Sofia, Bulgaria. Russian, Bulgarian, whatever their heritage they are large and stand up clear in a city of contrasts. Left over from past years and carried on into their newest years, they are intimidating in their extravagance. The churches are huge structures that stand between you and the blue sky. Rising, rising in sharp points or rounded domes. Gold is used in excess, both inside and outside. You walk into the darkness and the smell of stale worship sits heavy. It’s beautiful inside, yes, I even get a bit lost in the hollow size of it all. But just look at that history and those traditions that they carry on through into a modern Bulgaria. The chandelier that hangs in the middle of the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a ring of fire. One little girl stands beneath it and looks up into its centre. God is light, but she won’t find him hanging way up there.